Costume design for the “Fireman” (likely cut) in the Hippodrome production of Good Times

The Hippodrome, built in 1905 just a few blocks north of where this Library building now stands, served as a venue for some of the most exciting spectacles of the early 20th century. During its peak years (1908–1923), Richard H. Burnside, a Scottish immigrant who prided himself on the mass appeal of his productions, was artistic director. Burnside’s papers are preserved in the Billy Rose Theatre Division and include these two costume renderings by Gladys Monkhouse. Monkhouse, Cora MacGeachy, and Aline Bernstein were among a cohort of notable early-20th-century female costume designers in the often male-dominated field of theatrical design.

The 1918–1919 musical Everything featured a score by John Philip Sousa and Irving Berlin, with lyrics by John Golden (for whom Broadway’s John Golden Theatre is named). Early notes for Good Times mention a planned scene paying tribute to American industry that involved more than 250 people on stage representing no fewer than 100 professions. Monkhouse designed at least 18 costumes for this scene, including this one, depicting women in professions such as Fireman, Bricklayer, Knife Grinder, and Jockey—roles that would have been considered exclusively masculine in 1920. Between July and August 1920, the scene was modified to become a “Hall of Commerce” in which stereotypical representations of 22 countries appeared on stage to do business with personifications of “Liberty,” “Truth,” and “Uncle Sam.”